Thursday, August 18, 2011

Turtleback Mountain

Vicki resting at the top of Turtleback Mountain
8/17/11 (Wednesday) - Today was a shorter hike up Turtleback Mountain. There were several nice views of the surrounding islands as we went up.

View of West Sound from the top of Turtleback Mountain
Made our way back down to East Sound for lunch at Portofinos for a calzone and Italian sub sandwich.

Wandered around East Sound for a few minutes and returned to our room at Kingfish Inn.

Dinner at Ship Bay. Best meal on Orcas Island and the most expensive. Vicki had a chicken dish, that she shared with me, the best chicken I have ever tasted. I had halibut in a light cherry sauce with risotto. Excellent meal.

Right before entering the restaurant for dinner we spotted some deer in their pear orchard. One stag was getting up on his hind legs reaching up to get the pears.

Tomorrow we leave for the Olympic Peninsula.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Orca whale watching

8/17/11 (Tuesday)  - Today was resting up from yesterday's (Monday's) hike up Mt. Constitution and whale watching.



Whale watching did not begin until 1 PM, so we wandered around the island. Went out to Doe Bay and made dinner reservations. Nice view from the Doe Bay beach.

Headed back to Orca Village and shared a sandwich for lunch. A less than ordinary turkey sandwich was $8. We split it.

The whale watching tour (Eclipse Tours) began in Orcas Village at 12:45 PM. The Skipper gave us a 15 minute orientation. Especially important was that orcas had been reported in the area.

We boarded the Orcas Express at 1 PM and basically headed south/southwest of Orcas Island. Within 45 minutes the first orcas were spotted.

All tour ships are to stay within 200 yards of the orcas. If the orcas surface near the boat the skipper must turn off the engines until they are further away. Park officials are onsite monitoring the tour boats to make sure they comply.

Research vessels are there as well. One of note has a dog that is trained to sniff out orca poop that is then gathered to be examined by researchers. The dog, "Gus," was out there with his life jacket on. What is unusual about Gus is that he is afraid of water, so the handler has to take him onshore to pee.

There are two orcas pods that reside in the San Juan Islands area. We spotted the L pod. They are indentified by the white markings at the base rear of their top fin.

Occassionally transient groups of orcas are spotted, but it is dependent on the season whether or not they will be seen.




The whale watching was amazing and fantastic. They are a protected species, as a result of Sea World coming in and capturing several orcas years ago most of which have died. Seeing these whales (they are actually not whales, but members of the dolphin family) in the wild, open sea it is clearly evident they belong here and not in captivity learning tricks. They cannot possibly be healthy in an enclosed pool.

On the way back to Orcas Village we spotted two bald eagles, harbor seals and a sea lion. The tide was coming is as well causing strong currents that generate whirlpools. Cool stuff.

Dinner was at the Doe Bay Cafe. They feature dishes prepared with locally grown produce and caught seafood. I had a vegetarian "napoleon" that stacked grilled vegetables between polenta. Vicki had a vegetable dish with rice noodles. All very good.

Monday, August 15, 2011

Seattle area - cooling off vacation

This is a retroactive entry for our vacation. We left Fort Worth on Thursday, August 11. I haven't been able to keep up on a daily basis for a couple of reasons. One...not having the time. Two...the Edgewater Hotel, where we stayed in Seattle at the beginning of the trip was charging by the hour for Wifi access. Ridiculous! Needless to say, I did not want to pay.

As blogs go you need to read from the bottom up for the dates to be sequential...so scroll down to read/view entries chronologically.


8/15/11 (Monday) -Breakfast at the Inn. The main dish was a smoked salmon scramble...interesting. The accompaniments of fresh fruit and banana muffin were tasty.

The main event today was hiking up Mt. Constitution, the highest peak on the island at 2400 feet. The hike to the top is about 4.5 miles. It was one of the more challenging hikes we've tackled. It is also one of the best. We were rewarded with great views at the top and a sunlit forest on the way up. Also, spotted our first bald eagle flying and rousting near the top of the mountain. Coming down was in some respects more difficult than going up...some pretty steep switch backs.
Vicki took a tumble near the bottom and came away with only a few bruises and scrapes. The top of my hand brushed the underside of a stinging nettle leaf which caused some welts on my hand that itched. Fortunately they went away within a few hours.

Dinner was at Chilada's in East Sound. I had Dungeness Crab enchiladas.

8/14/11 (Sunday) - Left Seattle and headed for Orcas Island where we will be for the next four nights. Breakfast at the Edgewater Hotel. Packed our stuff and headed out to pick up the rent car. We thought the car reservation was at a downtown location, but no, it was in the University section of the city. So, we took a cab to the Budget car rental location. The cab driver did not know where he was going, but claimed our scenic route was a result of road construction. You know when you travel and take a cab...you are at their mercy.

On our way north to Anacortes to catch the ferry to the island, we stopped in a little village called La Conner. There were some interesting shops. One had several meditation bells that were cool. Nothing I could pack in a suitcase and bring home though.

Our ferry was scheduled to leave at 4 PM and we got there around 1:30. Early is good because the ferries were filling up about an hour to an hour and a half ahead of time. The ferry ride to Orcas took a little over an hour.
Kingfish Inn and West Sound Cafe
Checked in to the Kingfish Inn which adjoins the West Sound Cafe. Had dinner at the Cafe...I had grilled salmon on roasted sweet potatoes. Vicki had fish and chips, her fall back food whenever she can't find anything else on the menu she likes. Both dishes were very good.







8/13/11 (Saturday) - Breakfast again at Piroshky, then on to Pioneer Square, the historic center of the city. There we took an underground tour.

The city was rebuilt on top of the burned remains with a series of retaining walls. The ground was leveled by moving earth from higher ground filling in the retaining wall gaps.

The tour was somewhat interesting. We had a rookie tour guide who had a number of nervous ticks that he used to remember his script. It makes a difference when you have a good story teller.

In the evening we had dinner at il Bistro in the Market. The food and service was excellent. The waiter was engaging and provided some more tips on where to visit.

After dinner we went to the Gum Wall to meet our guide for the Ghost and Lust Tour.

The Gum Wall is outside a theater where the manager got disgusted with patrons sticking gum on the seats. So, he put a sign outside telling patrons to leave their gum outside. And, they did. First on the sign, then all over the wall. And, just this year, the gum is on the opposite wall as well. Eventually the Gum Wall will become Gum Alley.

Now, the Ghost and Lust Tour guide, Penny, was excellent. She had theater training and it showed. She is a storyteller. I took video of most of the tour and will post them somewhere.

We got "lust" thrown into the tour because of the late hour. Plus, the early history of Seattle includes many women who supposedly "sewed" for a living. Being on the coast there were many men to be serviced...like sailors. Prostitution was a big business and the sex business near the Market at one point threatened the existence of the buildings. They were slated to be torn down, but were preserved as historic structures which evolved into the Market it is today. All that remains of the sex trade is a burlesque show and sex shop.


8/12/11 (Friday) - Breakfast...got coffee at the original Starbucks and took it over to Piroshky Bakery across the street from Pike Place Market, a Russian pastry shop that we noticed yesterday had lines out the door. The pastries are amazing! We shared a spinach and cheese, and apple piroshky. Basically, a piroshky is a folded dough pastry with a variety of different fillings. Check out their website for details.

It was early, since we were still on Central Time, so we made it back to Pike Place Market before a lot of the vendors/artists were setup. We noticed some activity near one end of the market and discovered that the vendors were finding out where they could setup for the day. Rob, one of the artists, whose specialty is popsicle puppets, heard us talking and proceeded to explain what was going on. Stall assignments are based on seniority and are difficult to obtain. Stalls are only given to artists who are evaluated by a jury of peers and when accepted are placed on a list for a stall. Those with seniority, in some cases more than 30 years at the Market, are guaranteed a spot. Others take their chances.

One amazing thing at the Market is the flowers. The stalls facing the street all along the Market are flower vendors. There is color everywhere! They vendors are primarily Asian women busily putting flower arrangements together. They range in price from $5 -$15, and would cost three to four times that much in Fort Worth.

Of course we saw the fish vendor guys throwing fish around. Lots of fruit and vegetable vendors around as well. We tried some peaches that were so delicious that we had some shipped home to Papaw and Justin. Included were some nectarines and dates.

We bought a number of things...some Christmas presents. Vicki got clothes and jewelry. She got a necklace and ring from Jim, an Asian artist who has been at the Market for about 30 years. He found/collected most of the stones used in his pieces himself. Some of the most interesting looking pieces used stones that resembled landscapes.

We walked around to get oriented. Considered going up the Space Needle, but their was a one hour wait to get up. Noticed in our walking that the city is remarkably clean. Lots of public art. Also, noticed a fair number of homeless people...sad.

Dinner and entertainment was at Teatro ZinZanni. It is like Cirque de Soleil dinner theatre. It was a lot of fun and very entertaining.

On our walk back to the hotel we went up the Space Needle - no lines at 10 PM. The view is impressive and much better at night in my opinion than during the day.



8/11/11 (Thursday) – Susan W. drove us to the airport and talked nonstop. Entertaining stuff.

Flight was mostly uneventful, with the exception of a young teen who got motion sickness one row up and across the aisle from us on a smooth flight. Not an odor you want on an enclosed airplane. Felt sorry for the kid, but sorrier for the non-related passengers sitting on either side of him.

Had several options to get from the airport to the hotel. Chose a taxi over light-rail because we have two big suitcases and four carry-ons. Cost $45 including tip to get us to the Edgewater Hotel.

Checked-in, got to the room and Vicki thought we had reserved a room facing the bay. Went back down to the front desk…we were in the correct room…facing the hotel parking lot, mostly hidden by trees. The room is actually quite comfortable. The bathroom has a walk-in shower.

Vicki got over being pissy about the room…and started to chill and enjoy the MUCH cooler temperature, 72 degrees as opposed to 108 back in Fort Worth.

We did find out that we were in good company at the Edgewater. In earlier times The Beatles and Led Zeppelin stayed there supposedly because you can fish or piss from your room, since the hotel is on the edge of the water (built on pilings) and Elliott Bay is outside the window...if you reserve THAT kind of room.

After settling in at the hotel we walked up the piers and visited a Russian sailing ship that was passing through. It is a training ship for sailors. Got some photos that I'll post.

Walked up to Pike Place Market and toured the top floor section of stalls. The Market has several levels since it's built into the side of a cliff. On our way back to the hotel stopped at Anthony's for dinner. With the two hour time difference that made it a day for us.