Durango

Saturday was cowboy day. There was a parade that presented good photo opportunities. And we met an interesting character or two. Here are a few photos.

After the parade there were cowboy stories, music and poetry at the Statler Hotel. Some of them funny others sad...a lifestyle on the wane.

That evening we went to a movie at the downtown theatre. The two of us were the only ones there. We had a private showing. How do they make any money?

Sunday morning we had breakfast for the second time at a bagel shop. Afterwards I went on a bike ride heading north out of town. No mishaps this time. Great scenery, little traffic and a bit of climbing.

Had a late lunch, chili that was good and spicy, but we "paid" for it later. Watched the Denver Broncos beat themselves playing the New England Patriots. Peyton Manning was leading a comeback, but missed catches and a late fumble did them in. Went to another movie, Loopers, at a different theater, not a private showing this time and then called it a day.

On to Aspen today.

Vacation 2012 - Week 1

I've been having trouble posting, so I am only going to cover highlights and weird stuff. If you want details friend Vicki on Facebook if you have not already done so.

We left for Taos on Sunday, Sept. 30. Vicki drove the entire eleven hours, a first for her. The most interesting part of the ride was on New Mexico Hwy. 120 that has stretch of road that is gravel and wide enough for one vehicle. It is part of the climb up the mountain and here is where we got into the Fall colors.







In Taos we stayed at the El Monte Sagrado Resort and Spa. We usually stay in a bed and breakfast, but this place was really luxurious and a very good value. We will probably be back.




During our four day stay in Taos we had massages, ate at La Cueva, Oregano's Gourmet Sandwiches, Graham's Grille (my favorite), Orlando's, and Bent Street Cafe. Did a five mile hike up El Devisadero in Carson National Forest.




Lastly, I had a memorable bike ride up to Taos Ski Village ... actually it was coming down that was memorable. I managed to hit a pothole going 25-30 mph that resulted in blowing out both tires, the force pushed my handlebars down a bit, my chain came off and I did not crash. I only carry one spare tube, so I had a dilemma. I tried calling Vicki on my cell, but did not get a call through. Fortunately another cyclist, Caleb, stopped and sold me one of his spare tubes. As the two of us were talking Vicki heard our conversation because my call had gone through, but the phone was in my pocket. She knew the route, so headed up the mountain and found me switching out the tubes. Since Vicki was there I decided to "sag" back to town figuring that I probably should not ride because of unknown damage to the bike. So, we drove directly to Gearing Up, one of the local bike shops. Both wheels were out of true. After $47 in repairs I was ready for the next ride.




On Thursday, Oct. 4, we left Taos and headed for Durango. On the way we stopped in Chama to take the Cumbre & Toltec narrow gauge railroad ride. A bus took us to Antonito where we got on the train back to Chama. The ride was spectacular! Just check out the photos.

At the halfway point the train stopped in Osier where we had lunch and a bathroom break. The weird thing about the men's bathroom was the decor. The walls were decorated with old album covers of female country western singers. Each urinal had it's own performer. I got Reba McIntire.




We arrived in Chama somewhat blackened with soot, but happy we had chosen to experience the ride and memorable scenery.

On to Durango where we checked in to the Doubletree Hotel and settled in after switching rooms three times. How come when you book these places online they put you in the worst rooms?




After breakfast Friday at Jean Pierre the French French (not a typo) Baker we got over the hotel room debacle and made some plans for our Durango stay. Did some shopping and found a really cool xylophone - yeah what a weird thing to buy, but the sounds coming from this thing are amazing...kind of zen like tones.




In the afternoon we rented a bike for Vicki and rode a trail along the Animas River that runs alongside the hotel. Dinner was at an Irish restaurant downtown that had live music - a Celtic band.

 

Today, Saturday, Oct. 6, there is cowboy parade and other cowboy related activities that we are going to check out. Tomorrow I am planning to take a bike ride.

 

 

RTR a month ago already

A month has gone by already since Ride the Rockies began. I am still benefiting from it. My cycling is stronger than ever...which is a good thing. I just wonder how long it will last.

Anyway, I ordered one of the pictures the ride photographers took. So here I am on the fifth day, climbing. It was one of the best days!

Ride the Rockies 2012

This is a single posting summarizing one of the greatest physical challenges I have undertaken.

Randy and Jim on RTR

Early this year a high school friend, Jim, from Ecuador, asked if I was interested in joining him to Ride the Rockies (RTR), a six day (June 9-15), 442 mile bicycle ride through the Rocky Mountains in Colorado. I accepted and trained for several months by riding, spinning and yoga.

The route started in Gunnison and finished in Ft. Collins, Colorado. I drove to Ft. Collins beginning on Wednesday, June 6 arriving on Thursday, June 7. That gave me a day, Friday, to ride around the Ft. Collins area to get a bit acclimated to the altitude and test my new bike frame.

NOTE: The weekend before RTR I managed to damage my bike frame on my final training ride. So, I had three days to find a new frame. Fortunately Patrick, my friend and spin class trainer found an Orbea frame online that I ordered, shipped overnight and took to Colonel's bike shop to put on the components. It all worked out and I was able to leave for Colorado as planned on Wednesday, June 6.

Friday, June 8 - Rode 31 miles in the Ft. Collins area. A very bike friendly city. Bike lanes everywhere. Route was mostly flat, but did include three 12% grade climbs near Horsetooth Reservoir.

In the afternoon I packed my bike in a box to prepare it for the bus trip to Gunnison from Ft. Collins.

Saturday, June 9 - Drove to the Odell Brewery in Ft. Collins to catch the bus to Gunnison. It was about a five hour ride. Met Jim, who is riding the route on a "folder" bike that he brought from Virginia, where he lives, in a suitcase. The bike is made of steel. Amazing! Completed registration for RTR and secured a spot in the gym to bed down.

RTR Aid Station

Sleeping in a gym is a "special" experience in itself. We slept in school gyms all week. We were in the early group which means lights out at 9:30 PM and lights on at 5:30 AM the next morning. A gym full of sleeping men and women who make many different sleeping sounds in addition to snoring is a real treat. It's like a low roar all night. Ear plugs did help some.

The morning routine consisted of getting in line for the bathroom (portable outdoor toilets), eating an energy bar (breakfast) while waiting in line; dressing in layers for a cold morning ride...full-finger gloves, arm and leg warmers, vest, "do-rag" for the head, ear headband, shoe toe covers and helmet; packing the bag and taking it to luggage truck; filling the Camelback with water; getting the bike out of the "corral" (where it was secure - no rustlers); lining up for access to a pump to inflate the bike tires; and finally...ready to roll...usually between 6:30 and 7:00 AM.

Jim's folder bicycle

Once we got started Jim would ride with me for awhile and take off. He is a really strong rider. It is amazing that he rode on a "folder." And, as the ride progressed his derailler malfunctioned and he couldn't use the few gears available to him since the bike has a single chain ring.

Sunday, June 10 - The first day of riding - Gunnison to Hotchkiss. First climbing test. I did 83 miles in a headwind. One long climb...about 20 miles total with some breaks. I felt pretty good. I did get an altitude headache that evening, but that is the only issue I had with the altitude all week.

I am not going into a daily description of each ride, but will hit the highlights. I did figure out a cadence and rhythm to climbing that worked well for me. I guess you could say it was my "zone." I was certainly not fast...usually 5 - 10 mph on the long climbs. My lowest gear was still higher than many other riders, so I found myself inexorably passing people on the way up. You wouldn't think that dealing with bike "traffic" on the climbs would be an issue, but it was. I found myself getting out of the saddle or pushing hard for a short distance just to get around slow moving groups of cyclists. One guy even paced me for awhile saying that I was like a "metronome." I thought it was hilarious that he was pacing me!

The third day was the toughest. Carbondale to Leadville through Independence Pass, altitude over 12,000 feet. The pass was at the 50 mile mark, but there were 35 more miles to go. 17 miles down...which is soooo cool. But, the last 18 miles were brutal! There was a constant headwind, a 9% grade climb on a dirt road, a butt and balls busting asphalt road with raised seams every 15-20 feet, a long slow climb into Leadville, and then the school was on a hill! Total miles 85; altitude feet gained during the day was more than 7,000 feet. I was actually in the saddle for more than 8 hours. I was wiped out!

The last two days were the best. Granby to Estes Park was through the Rocky Mountain National Park up to Milner Pass (elevation 12,000+ feet). Tough climb, fantastic scenery, absolutely awesome descent. I tried to keep the speed in check, but it was really easy to go over 40 mph.

The last day, Friday, June 15, Estes Park to Ft. Collins we got re-routed as a result of the forest fires. Jim and I rode together. Most of the route was downhill through a couple of scenic canyons. We ended up averaging about 20 mph for the 47 miles traveled. It was the shortest route of the event.

RTR was difficult, but I come away with a good sense of accomplishment. Will I do it again? I don't know, but Jim will ask me again.

  

Olympic Peninsula, Victoria, Seattle and Home

This is another retroactive entry covering the rest of the trip. We got back home late Wednesday night, August 24. So, scroll down to the bottom of this entry to read/view chronologically.

8/24/11 (Wednesday) – Last day…back to Fort Worth. Got an early start, so we made it to the Bainbridge Island ferry with time to spare, enough time to spend a couple more hours at Pike Place Public Market in Seattle.

Had cheese sandwiches at Beecher's where you can watch them make the cheese used in the sandwiches. We tried their macaroni & cheese as well...very cheesy and delicious.

Bought a couple more things...why not...we are at the market. It's a good place to pick up some gifts for family and friends.

Elwha River

Madison Falls

8/23/11 (Tuesday) – Started late this morning. Instead of bagels at the cabin for breakfast we went to Granny’s Café. Afterwards on to the Elwha River for a short hike up to the dam which is to be demolished beginning in September. The area is being restored to its natural state, the reintroduction of its former salmon runs. Of course this action is several decades too late given that the construction of the dam in the early 1900s took away the livelihood of the Native Americans that used to live along the river. But, it is good that the area is being restored…it may take the government awhile to “get it”, but progress is being made.

Visited Madison Falls on our way out of the Elwha valley. Headed into Port Angeles for lunch at the wine bar on the wharf. Had some excellent clam chowder, three cheeses and a couple glasses of wine. Dessert was ice cream cones from Dairy Queen, then back to the cabin for a nap.

Dinner was at Michael’s in downtown Port Angeles. I had Dungeness crab cakes, Vicki steak. All good. Came away stuffed. Back to the cabin to pack and get ready for the return trip to Fort Worth and the continuing heat wave…yippee!

Ferry to Victoria

8/22/11 (Monday) – Victoria, British Columbia, Canada. Took the ferry from Port Angeles to Victoria. Decided not to take the car. This is the first time Vicki used her passport…although she is disappointed it did not get stamped.

We arrived a little after 10 AM. It rained until we it was time for us to leave.

Parliament

Parliament Cupola

First thing we did was take a 30 minute tour of the British Columbia Parliament. It’s a very grand building.  The docent explained the government/political structure of parliament. A bit on the history included a woman who played the part of Queen Victoria.

Next we went to the Visitor’s Centre, got a map, tips on where to eat and visit. Exchanged some US currency for Canadian. Had lunch at little Mexican food place. Caught a bus to Craigdarroch Castle, built for Robert Dunsmir between 1887-1890, who was one of the most wealthy people in BC. He died a year before the castle was completed. Interesting structure with many nice stained glass windows.

Headed back downtown.  Walked the narrowest alley in the city…wide enough for a single person. Made purchases at two shops in the alley. At one we bought a green man chalice/wine glass and journal notebook. We also got a book and some chocolates at Rogers'. The green apple cream was the best.

Empress Hotel

Got tired walking in the rain. Bought a smoothie at a shop so we could rest. Walked some more and then rested again at the Empress Hotel…some nice leather chairs in the upper lobby…one of the most relaxing moments of the trip.

Had dinner at Sam’s Deli/Sandwhich shop. As we were eating around 6 PM, the sun came out. We walked around the wharf area and then to the ferry that departed at 7:30 PM. Arrived back in Port Angeles about 9 PM.

Concluded that the trip to Victoria was kind of a bust. The rain didn’t help, but it’s the only day this trip where the weather has been bad. Missed Buchart Garden which is one of the big attractions. Visiting a big city in the rain…not that great…but the castle was cool.

Hoh Rainforest

8/21/11 (Sunday) – Hoh Rainforest and Ruby Beach today. Another long day driving. Got an early start since we had about 80 miles to go.

The Hoh forest around the visitor center has several short hikes. We took several of them through the trees. Some of the trees are more than 900 years old, Douglas fir, spruce, hemlock (not the poison). The moss hanging from the branches makes some of the trees look like monsters and aliens.

Ruby Beach

I must note for the sake of pop culture that the Olympic Peninsula is the area in which the Twilight vampire stories are based. There are tours and landmarks all over the area regarding events in the stories. I mention this because tonight we had dinner at Bella Italia, the restaurant where two of the Twilight characters, Bella and Edward, had their first dinner date. Who would guess that a vampire likes Italian?

Hurricane Ridge

8/20/11 (Saturday) –  Most scenic hike ever today…Hurricane Ridge. According to Vicki, freaky.

The drive up is about 17 miles from Port Angeles. Nice views on the way up. Lots of cyclists…reminded me of the Alp D'Huez climb in the Tour de France.

At the top, amazing view. Hurricane Ridge is a snow covered craggy mountain range. The sky is clear and blue. It’s actually warmer up here than in Port Angeles, 80 degrees as opposed to 68.

There are a number of hikes to choose from that begin in the parking lot. We decided to go up one of the ridges, since we are equipped for it.

The climb at times was very steep. The trail “freaky” because it is narrow, two to three feet wide with a 60-80 degree drop on one side. The hiking poles came in handy.

Encountered some snow pack where the trail had been diverted. One spot was very steep. Going down was worse than going up.

Of all the hikes we have taken, this is the most scenic. Amazing views of the mountains all around and the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

We did have to keep moving because standing still meant a mosquito attack. We were also getting buzzed by nickel –sized flies.

Met a group from India who were hiking in street shoes and no water. It’s hard to understand what people are thinking when they start out on a hike…obviously not thinking.

Heard a story about a guy that died up here last year after being gored by a mountain goat. Apparently he was trying to protect a group of hikers from this aggressive goat. When gored an artery was severed and he bled out. The goat stood over him for thirty minutes, so no one could help him. The aggressive behavior is related to men urinating in the goat’s territory.

Barrel Racing at the Rodeo

Headed back to Port Angeles to the Clallum County Fair. The woman at the ticket booth let us pay as seniors…I guess because of our dirty/sweaty look after hiking. The best event at the Fair was the rodeo. This was the real deal! Small town rodeo with cow folk who are just learning how to barrel race, ride a bucking horse and bull. Fun to watch. Got a lot of good photos.

Visited some of the animal barns after the rodeo. The swine barn had a mama pig and her many piglets having dinner. A funny sight.

 

Cape Flattery

8/19/11 (Friday) – Drove a lot today.  Up the coast to Cape Flattery, the furthest northwest point of the lower 48 states. The inland weather is bright and sunny. As we approach the coast, fog. Visibility at Cape Flattery is 100-150 yards. Despite the weather an amazing place. The surf has carved caves into the side of cliffs. Huge rocks are stranded off the beach/coast. They appear and disappear in the fog. Beautiful.

Spotted puffins fishing. A bald eagle flew over us. Very cool.

Met a German couple who work in Dubai. I didn’t think that anyone we met would beat the 100+ degree heat we were escaping in Ft. Worth, but Dubai is humid and 120 degrees! The woman said she takes their dog for a walk at 4:30 AM, and it won’t go out the rest of the day. They endure the heat for the good money they are making.

Rialto Beach

Kept going up the coast to more beaches, such as Rialto Beach. The fog was at each, but the views were still pretty awesome.

Headed back to the B&B. Stopped for dinner at the Hungry Bear Restaurant. We should have left the Bear hungry…the food was yuck.

Turtleback Mountain

Vicki resting at the top of Turtleback Mountain

8/17/11 (Wednesday) - Today was a shorter hike up Turtleback Mountain. There were several nice views of the surrounding islands as we went up.

View of West Sound from the top of Turtleback Mountain

Made our way back down to East Sound for lunch at Portofinos for a calzone and Italian sub sandwich.

Wandered around East Sound for a few minutes and returned to our room at Kingfish Inn.

Dinner at Ship Bay. Best meal on Orcas Island and the most expensive. Vicki had a chicken dish, that she shared with me, the best chicken I have ever tasted. I had halibut in a light cherry sauce with risotto. Excellent meal.

Right before entering the restaurant for dinner we spotted some deer in their pear orchard. One stag was getting up on his hind legs reaching up to get the pears.

Tomorrow we leave for the Olympic Peninsula.

Orca whale watching

8/17/11 (Tuesday)  - Today was resting up from yesterday's (Monday's) hike up Mt. Constitution and whale watching.



Whale watching did not begin until 1 PM, so we wandered around the island. Went out to Doe Bay and made dinner reservations. Nice view from the Doe Bay beach.

Headed back to Orca Village and shared a sandwich for lunch. A less than ordinary turkey sandwich was $8. We split it.

The whale watching tour (Eclipse Tours) began in Orcas Village at 12:45 PM. The Skipper gave us a 15 minute orientation. Especially important was that orcas had been reported in the area.

We boarded the Orcas Express at 1 PM and basically headed south/southwest of Orcas Island. Within 45 minutes the first orcas were spotted.

All tour ships are to stay within 200 yards of the orcas. If the orcas surface near the boat the skipper must turn off the engines until they are further away. Park officials are onsite monitoring the tour boats to make sure they comply.

Research vessels are there as well. One of note has a dog that is trained to sniff out orca poop that is then gathered to be examined by researchers. The dog, "Gus," was out there with his life jacket on. What is unusual about Gus is that he is afraid of water, so the handler has to take him onshore to pee.

There are two orcas pods that reside in the San Juan Islands area. We spotted the L pod. They are indentified by the white markings at the base rear of their top fin.

Occassionally transient groups of orcas are spotted, but it is dependent on the season whether or not they will be seen.

The whale watching was amazing and fantastic. They are a protected species, as a result of Sea World coming in and capturing several orcas years ago most of which have died. Seeing these whales (they are actually not whales, but members of the dolphin family) in the wild, open sea it is clearly evident they belong here and not in captivity learning tricks. They cannot possibly be healthy in an enclosed pool.

On the way back to Orcas Village we spotted two bald eagles, harbor seals and a sea lion. The tide was coming is as well causing strong currents that generate whirlpools. Cool stuff.

Dinner was at the Doe Bay Cafe. They feature dishes prepared with locally grown produce and caught seafood. I had a vegetarian "napoleon" that stacked grilled vegetables between polenta. Vicki had a vegetable dish with rice noodles. All very good.